August 26, 2010. Clinton bought Paul Arnold's Windswept in Bremerton, Washington within the last several days, and then checked in with the following email (minor edits) and pictures.

Ron,

I am the new owner of Windswept. She is stored in Bremerton, until April, 2011.

The trailer she sits on, which is in nice shape, needs new tires, lights, and an updated surge-brake system before I can move her up the Alaskan Highway. Her temporary home will be in Anchorage, and in 2-3 years she'll be moved to Sitka.

Meantime she'll spending some time on Big Lake, AK., after new paint, the through hulls reset/checked, and attention to the teak trim; then time renovating, updating, seeing what works, and what doesn't, what needs fixing, and so on. 

She was surveyed as satisfactory prior to purchase. If you like, I can keep you posted on her trip to Alaska, as well as the renovation, and journey to her eventual new home in Sitka. I've included a few pictures. Thanks for the website. Okay to put me on the email list.

Regards,

Clinton Hodges
Anchorage, AK

 

 Ready to roll

On the road

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May 9, 2011. Clinton sent in the following updates (consolidated) and pictures of Windswept Too (minor edits).

Dear Ron,

I thought you would like to know that Windswept too, hull no. 245, safely arrived in Anchorage, last week.

Originally, my plans where to trailer her north on the Alaska-Canadian highway, but that changed significantly due to the effect of permafrost on the roadbed. This isn’t to say that pulling a trailer on this highway is risky, because many visitors do so every summer. However, few if any are pulling a thirty year old trailer, and still, an even older cargo - a forty year old Yankee Dolphin. Factor in daily fuel increases, nagging credit card issues in Canada, an ill border collie, I made the decision to have Windswept too, transported to Anchorage, via Alaska Marine Lines.

 The Port of Anchorage

 

 

Regarding the thirty year old trailer that was made specifically for Windswept, in 1981, it was obvious upgrades were needed to bring the trailer up to current minimum DOT, standards, and then some. Thus, the single axle hydraulic brake system was replaced with a dual axle disc brake system, new bearings, new axles, springs, numerous fasteners, 7000# disc brake actuator, tires, wheels, and led trailer lights.

 

I utilized the services of a boat yard, with a lift, to store Windswept too for several days while upgrades were being performed to the trailer. One of the unknowns, not addressed in the survey, was the status of the center board, because the cable was missing. The status of the centerboard is no longer a unknown, and a cable replacement was performed while she was on the hard in Port Orchard, WA.

A new chapter in Windswept’s history began last August, in Bremerton, WA, and continues, now, in Anchorage, AK. She is renamed, Windswept too.

The first order of business was getting all the stuff in the cabin removed, and then taking a moment to take it all in. In the next forty-five days or so she’ll be repainted, teak restored, and the deck hardware rebedded. I think I can have her in the water in time for my son’s birthday in July.

I'll keep you posted on the restoration process. Today, I will be taking pictures of the deck hardware, for reference after rebedding/repainting. Next the thru-hulls (4) will be replaced: two associated with the supply/discharge of the toilet are not needed; one associated with the galley, and one associated with the cockpit drains to be replaced, and ball valves replaced. They don'tlook through bolted. Was this common back then?

Still undecided on which way to go with bottom paint. The hull was barrier coated in the late 80's and looks good. The locals here recommend Pettit, Vivid. With salmon spawning in the marina? Hmm. Perhaps, a little sanding, primer, and then Pettit, Vivid 'free'.

The rebedding process will take a little longer due to minor damage to the clamp in certain stress areas where backing plates should havebeen used. Following a thorough visual inspection of the standing, and running rigging I think she will be ready to splash.

Took two of us to remove the vintage 80's Honda OB. 9.9, and heavy too. The OB will be replaced with something about half that size/weight.

Ron, thank you for maintaining the Dolphin website, the effort, quality, and the value is not going unnoticed. I will keep you posted on the restoration process.

Best regards, Clinton Hodges

Windswept too, Anchorage AK

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May 27, 2011. Clinton sent in a detailed report from Alaska where the weather must be nice - dry and warm good for boat work - unlike New England wet and foggy. His report with photos are included in our Technical Section on repairs. Click here to go there.

June 22, 2011, Here is another detailed report from Clinton on #245's restoration.

Ron,

This is to touch base with you on Windswept toos' progress which is going well, but some aspects of the refit is hindered due to cooler, and wet weather lately. At 48f, it's just 8f above the West recommendation for use of 205/105 epoxy. Using metered pumps, West says it should kick-in around 9-20 minutes. It's taking every bit of that, and not altered by the use of colloidal silica either. It's currently 58f, sprinkling, and I'll soon be out of things to sand.

The teak, port toerail came apart in one piece, the starboard in two. It is my unqualified opinion that the teak is serviceable, but it has seen better days; both toerails will benefit from the assistance of epoxy. It is my understanding that the toerail strengthens thedeck/hull joint.

There are many examples of beautiful teak toerails, both old and new, and my skill level to repair the old is adequate, but replacing with new-questionable. At what point is cosmetically pleasing, old teak, still capable of its main purpose of providing support for the deck/hull joint? I have no way of knowing the answer to this. I suspect it's time to go with new, and I don't have the skill to install a new teak toerail. Rig Rite, carries Merriman 7460F toerail (see left), that I think would be suitable for later Dolphins. Crest aluminum carries the old style C&C that may work as well. In both instances I like the t-rail track that integrates with the toe rail. Spendy, yes, but so is finding a qualified boat builder, and to install new teak. Do you have any input regarding aluminum toerails? Nope

Back to the existing toerail. At some point in her past, someone decided that the meanest, nastiest, hardest adhesive was the way to go in attaching the teak toerail to the deck. Sanding the toerail, repairing it with epoxy, and finishing it will take a fraction of the time that it will take to remove 48' of old, hardened adhesive. Enough said.

All four of the thru hulls are removed. I'm waiting for two new thru hulls, and one flanged seacock. Two thru hulls will be flanged, and capped. Waiting for one more gallon of Pre-Kote, then I can begin painting her topsides. I'll keep you posted on her continuing progress.

Warm regards,

Clinton Hodges
s/v Windswept too
Anchorage, AK

 

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July 1, 2011

We have the following update from Clinton - we'll also include the comments regarding thru hulls in the Technical Section/Misc.

Hi Ron,

Windswept too's refit continues, and is going well. Except...and I don't care to use that word. However, I must, and here's the conundrum I'm facing.

In above picture are two thru hulls. The one on the left is a 3/4 ", silicon bronze, flush-thru hull, with a flange diameter of 2 9/16", or 65mm. The thru hull on the right has a flange diameter of 1 15/16, or 49mm.

If I can't locate a used 3/4" thru hull of a flange diameter of 2 9/16", I don't see many options except to braze the threads from a new thru hull to the balance of threads on the old flange, or to totally glass over the hole.

Off the top of your head, do you know of used marine parts stores that might possibly have a bin of used thru hulls???? Webmastwer Note For used marine stuff I hunt around but my favorite place is in Wickford, RI. They have an online catalogue. http://marineconsignment.com/boat-parts/ There are others on line. Good luck

I wouldn't be in this situation if it wasn't for the under-the-sink thru hull being directly connected to a thru valve instead of a seacock. Strange as it is, a thru valve costs nearly as much as a flanged seacock, so I wonder what the reasoning was back then? $ probably. The cockpit drain has a similar, but larger 1 1/4" valve. Could it have come from Yankee Yachts this way? My understanding is that thousands of sailboats are plumbed in this incorrect manner. So it's anyone's guess how many sailboats sit on the bottom of the ocean because an improper valve was used on a thru hull.

Well, the final two gallons of Pre-Kote arrived, and the starboard top side is ready for 120g sanding, and paint in a day or two...weather permitting.

Regards, Clinton Hodges

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August 6, 2011. Clinton sent in an update and a few questions. The following is a consolidated edit of our exchange

Hi Ron,

A brief update on Windswept too's restoration. After countless hours prepping the hull for paint, and delays, some of them my fault, in getting the Epoxy Primekote delivered to Alaska, I was finally able to prime the topsides, and Brightside red the boot stripe.

Transom before priming	Transom after priming

Topsides before priming	Topsides epoxy primed

A picture of the bootstripe will follow. I’ve contacted Interlux to gain information related to the use of their paint products in deteriorating weather conditions that comes with August in Alaska, which is declining temperatures, and high humidity. My guess is that I’ll have to wait until next spring to finish the topsides, and I’m okay with that if that’s what it comes too.

I’m still undecided as to what to do with the existing aged teak toerail. Please don’t hate me if I go with aluminum, trust me; it’s a lot cheaper than hiring someone from the lower 48 to come up here and do the work properly, and in the traditional manner. I will have future business in the Seattle area in the coming months, and perhaps while in the Ballard area I’ll be able to come up with a solution for the toerail..

(Webmaster Reply: Re aluminun toe rail - I won't tell anyone :-)

Have you tried Yankee's old wood supplier? http://dolphin24.org/HandL_Marine_Woodwork.html.

Clinton's reply: Thanks for the link. I've seen it but can't figure out why I didn't make the connection to use it. Not thinking is my guess.

I want to go slightly larger than the original, preferably 1.750h x 1.250w. I know larger means it will be difficult to work with, but I know of a guy that went this way with a Cape Dory, and it turned out beautiful. He was able to select the teak, had the tools, and the skill to rip, scarf the joints at 5 degrees, and a 1/16" dado at each end. The seam is next to impossible to see.)

When I’m done here, it’s outside to begin installing the thru hulls. I was able to source thru hulls in the flange outer diameters I needed at San Diego Marine Exchange; they are Buck-Algonquin marine hardware. I wonder if Buck-Algonquin was the original supplier of hardware used by Yankee Yachts. In hindsight I wouldn’t recommend removing the thru hulls until the correct replacements are in hand. At least be fully aware of the consequences if you don’t, and can’t find the right size replacement.

Regarding thru hulls: Bolt Depot, of North Weymouth, MA, carries silicon bronze fasteners that can be purchased in singular quantities. I’ll keep you posted on the progress of the thru hull installation, and to include pictures.

Best regards,

Clinton R Hodges II
s/v Windswept too
hull no. 245
Anchorage, AK

Ps I have another question if I may. How late (temperature wise) into the season do guys in the northeast paint, with good results? I was in Port Orchard, WA, earlier this year and the temperature, at night, would drop down into the 30's. A boat yard there was prepping hulls, and bottoms, and painting during the day, and temperatures would only climb into the 40's. 

Webmaster reply: I vaguely recall seeing labelling that says do not use under 40. I take that to mean at least 40 not only when applying but for the drying period. One advantage is that the drying takes longer so you have more time to get the next coat on. Also, I built my dinghy "TEER during the winter months in an unheated barn. I epoxied the strakes and transoms together and gave it several coats of varnish. Almost all of this was done at temperatures between 40 and 50F. When necessary I enclosed the dinghy in a clear poly 'room' with a space heater that kept the temperature above 40.

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January 12, 2012. Clinton reports a new motor for Windswept too, and he has been following, with more than casual interest, Jonnie Walker's problems (Madalyn Joy, Yankee #227) using Interlux Brightsides on her deck. Here is his email (edited)

Hi Ron,

Happy New Year. Windswept too is coming along nicely. Sanding and prepping the hull is laborious and time consuming. I purchased a new outboard and trial fitted it and it looks good but I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the opening for the motor tiller handle. It's a long shaft 4 horse Tohatsu, 4 cycle.

You may recall that I removed the toe rails for replacement. All of the OEM hull/deck fasteners are being replaced with SS nut and bolts; so far just the starboard side has been replaced.

I'm interested to know a little more about Johnny's preparation of the deck relative to the issues regarding Interlux Brightside paint. On Windswept toos' topsides I went (down) to the gel coat because I didn't know what the existing coats of paint consisted of and the gel coat was grazed anyway and from there followed Interlux' s instructions for applying their epoxy primer and Brightside.

So far the new paint has seen copious amounts of rainfall, snow, and cold temperatures as low as -15f. As you are aware urethane paints are really fickle so I made sure to never apply it unless it was 50f and humidity in the 30%-40%. Thinning was necessary but nothing like they do down in Florida. But we'll see what happens with the deck. I'm hoping there will be no issues and I thank Johnny for the heads up regarding standing water.  

I hope to continue on where I left off with the thru hulls and begin the tedious work of prepping the deck for paint and non-skid. I understand what Johnny is saying about the lack of information contained in the labeling instructions. Clearly, water shouldn't stand on Brightside for any length of time. Where on Johnny's Dolphin does such a condition exist? (We are working on this) The toe rails that I removed from Windswept too were fabricated to drain water from the low lying areas of the deck, which is one area I can think of that water will not drain, but this is hardly enough of a reason not to use Brightside.  

In any event I intend to use Brightside on the deck but only after prepping the hull from the gel coat out and using epoxy primer. I wish Interlux would last longer and I think it will in a cooler environment but I don't have any unrealistic expectations either. My concern, like yours, is costs.

Take care and thanks for all the wonderful work you do for us and our Dolphins.

Regards, Clinton
Windswept too #245

Webmaster Note: We have included Clinton's comments on our Technical page regarding painting with Interlux Brightsides. Click to go there.